This stitch should not be confused with the Vandyke Stitch in embroidery, which is really an entirely different stitch. The Van Dyke smocking stitch makes a striking pattern of vertical stitches, excellent for boys' and adults' garments.

Like the Chain Stitch and the Feather Stitch, the Van Dyke stitch is worked from right to left. Start at the left side of the second pleat (counting right to left). Make a stitch through the first two pleats, as shown below (Step 1). Note that this is not really a Cable Stitch, because you are going through two pleats instead of one. Travel down to the next pleating row, and make a stitch through pleats #2 and #3 (Step 2). Repeat the stitch at the same place through pleats #2 and #3. Travel back up to the first row and stitch through pleats #3 and #4. Each traveling stitch is through one old pleat and one new pleat, and each non-traveling stitch is through two old pleats.

By traveling in the same direction instead of switching, you can produce some striking geometric designs.

These diagrams do not show the true effect of the Van Dyke stitch. In reality, the non-traveling stitches draw the pleats together, so that the traveling stitches do not look as slanted as in the drawing. The final stitching for this stepped design will actually look more like this :

Designs worked in the Van Dyke Stitch will not look as feminine as traditional Geometric Smocking designs. The stitches use a lot of vertical movement, giving the design a more open look. The stepped appearance of this stitch can give the design a Southwestern look, as in the sample below.